A brief description,
Strip planking is a form of carvel planking. The hull is built over forms using strips of wood, edge-glued, and edge fastened together. The strips are kept narrow so that there is very little shaping required. Strips are usually a minimum of 1/2 thick, with a maximum width of 1 1/2 times the thickness pending design. With modern epoxy adhesives, it is the glue and not the fasteners that hold's the hull together. This is what we don't use.

Our Quick Strip planking method uses strips of wood, edge-glued, faired, then glassed both inside and out with epoxy and fiberglass Double Bias. In this method the glue joints are less critical as the hull ends as a composite; the wood serving as a core. The glue joints only need to be rigid enough so that the hull can be faired and glass cloth applied without the hull deflecting from shape. This method is used on all our designs with planking varying, pending on design.

Strips can be cut from wider timber or ordered already dressed and fitted to the previous plank as required by the curvature of the hull. We don't recommend Bead and cove timber as due to the curvature of our powerboats flared hulls, the bead and cove inhibits planking.

Ideally, planks are long enough to put on in one piece, ideally, but it usually doesn't happen that way. Longer planks can be made by scarfing two shorter planks. Scarfing involves cutting the ends of the planks on a long bevel, lapping them, and gluing together. The length of the scarf should be at least five times the thickness of the plank. Scarf joints should be glued on a flat surface and allowed to thoroughly cure before installing on the boat. Typically, the master planks are scarfed, but other than that, scarfing in not required as you can simply butt join the timber when planking

All of our strip planked boats use temporary forms without permanent frames. If forms are meant to be temporary, the edges should be covered with plastic packing tape or similar to prevent the planking from sticking to forms. It is important that the planking strips be held tight against the form in order to eliminate a lot of unnecessary fairing. It is usually necessary to use temporary fasteners (i.e. chipboard screws) into the forms to keep the hull shape. If there are to be permanent bulkheads in the hull, the planking can be glued and permanently fastened to them. Protect the surfaces of any permanent bulkheads with polyethylene film, as there is a lot of glue dripping.

Planking typically begins at the keel working toward the sheer or vice versa; or in the middle working toward the keel and the sheer. Any of these methods work, but some may have advantages on specific designs. When starting at the sheer it is easier to fit the first planks, which is an advantage for first time builders. The bottom planks become more difficult to fit, as longer and longer tapers are required at the keel. Luckily, with thickened epoxy, exact fits are not absolutely necessary.

In the case of our quick strip hull, fairing is a process of smoothing out the hull to give it a smoother (fair) appearance. When the hull is viewed from either end, there should be no visible bumps or depressions. Be careful if using soft woods like cedar. Cedar is very easy to fair away, and it is difficult to judge how much you are removing. During the planking phase, it is therefore important to keep the planks tight against the form so that you won't have to remove too much to make the hull fair. This is why clamping strips are installed between the forms; so that stubborn planks can be pulled into place.

After the temporary screws have been removed and the hull faired, you now glass the exterior of the hull with the required laminate schedule as given in the plans. Then the running strakes are constructed and glassed into position then it's time to bog and fair the hull ready for painting.

3/ Planking the bottom plate. Here you can see the bottom plate "Masterplanks"
2/ Setting up the temporary frames on the strongback
1/ Marking out the temporary frames
6/ Filling in between the Masterplanks with strips of timber.
5/ The bottom plate now glued together and planking strips removed. Now "Master planking" the topside plate.
4/ The bottom plate plankede. Note the gaps between the planks ready for glueing between
9/ The hull now glassed
8/ Glassing teh bottom plate with fibreglass - Double Bias.
7/ The hull now completely planked, ready for glueing the topsides plate.
12/ Ready for rolling the hull over.
11/ Bottom plate topcoated
10/ The running strakes glued and glassed into postion, the hull now bogged and faired.
13/ The hull  rolled over and ready to be sanded and glassed.
14/ The hull interior now glassed.
15/ Internal framing and longitudinals in position ready to be tabbed in.
                                             Our Strip Plank Composite  Construction

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