Bowdidge Marine Designs
Performance Boat Designs with "Flare"
A brief description,
Our Quick Strip planking method uses strips of wood, edge-glued, faired, then glassed both inside and out with epoxy and fiberglass Double Bias. In this method the glue joints are less critical as the hull ends as a composite; the wood serving as a core. The glue joints only need to be rigid enough so that the hull can be faired and glass cloth applied without the hull deflecting from shape. This method is used on all our designs with planking varying, pending on design.
Strips can be cut from wider timber or ordered already dressed and fitted to the previous plank as required by the curvature of the hull. We don't recommend Bead and cove timber as due to the curvature of our powerboats flared hulls, the bead and cove inhibits planking.
Ideally, planks are long enough to put on in one piece, ideally, but it usually doesn't happen that way. Longer planks can be made by scarfing two shorter planks. Scarfing involves cutting the ends of the planks on a long bevel, lapping them, and gluing together. The length of the scarf should be at least five times the thickness of the plank. Scarf joints should be glued on a flat surface and allowed to thoroughly cure before installing on the boat. Typically, the master planks are scarfed, but other than that, scarfing in not required as you can simply but join the timber when planking
All of our strip planked boats use temporary forms without permanent frames. If forms are meant to be temporary, the edges should be covered with plastic packing tape or similar to prevent the planking from sticking to forms. It is important that the planking strips be held tight against the form in order to eliminate a lot of unnecessary fairing. It is usually necessary to use temporary fasteners (i.e. chipboard screws) into the forms to keep the hull shape. If there are to be permanent bulkheads in the hull, the planking can be glued and permanently fastened to them. Protect the surfaces of any permanent bulkheads with polyethylene film, as there is a lot of glue dripping.
3/ Planking the bottom plate. Here you can see the bottom plate "Masterplanks"
2/ Setting up the temporary frames on the strongback
1/ Marking out the temporary frames
6/ Filling in between the Masterplanks with strips of timber.
5/ The bottom plate now glued together and planking strips removed. Now "Master planking" the topside plate.
4/ The bottom plate plankede. Note the gaps between the planks ready for glueing between
9/ The hull now glassed
8/ Glassing teh bottom plate with fibreglass - Double Bias.
7/ The hull now completely planked, ready for glueing the topsides plate.
12/ Ready for rolling the hull over.
11/ Bottom plate topcoated
10/ The running strakes glued and glassed into postion, the hull now bogged and faired.
13/ The hull rolled over and ready to be sanded and glassed.
14/ The hull interior now glassed.
15/ Internal framing and longitudinals in position ready to be tabbed in.
Our Strip Plank Composite Construction
With the best technical support: we will help you succeed!
@ WEB DESIGN BY BOWDIDGE MARINE DESIGNS
We will respond immediately. At the same please visit our forum site, to share ideas about our boats and thousands of pictures - see completed boats and many of the building steps done by builders like you.
Designed Boat Plans
Boat Designs with "Reel Flare"
We have boat plans (both yacht designs, catamaran designs and power designs) for all sizes for the amateur boat builder and Professional boatbuilder. From the 12ft Mushulu plywood stitch & glue power boat design to the Oceansky 57 strip plank composite multihull design. We design and build, plywood boats, strip plank boats and fibreglass composite boats to very modern styling for both yacht designs, multihull designs and power boat in round bilge, multi-chine or radius chine hull forms, including aluminum drift boats, aluminum landing craft, aluminum monohull boats, aluminum catamarans, aluminum special purpose boats, and aluminum RIBs
See our "LIQUID ENGINEERING"